Freddy's Pub

1073 Budapest, Osvát utca 9.

Two minutes from Blaha Lujza tér this restaurant-pub offers something for all the residents and visitors of the neighbouring hotels and offices. Freddy’s Pub is where my path led last Friday. The pub used to be called ‘Kocsma a Piszkos Fredhez’ where ‘kocsma’ means (approximates the meaning of) pub, and ‘Piszkos Fred’ (lit. Dirty Fred) is a fictional character from the works of a popular Hungarian novelist, Rejtő Jenő (a.k.a. P. Howard, Gibson Lavery). To understand the pun perfectly, one would have to know more about Rejtő, and I wouldn’t advise you, gentle reader, against such ideas. It’s fun.

Freddy’s is rarely crowded, I think that's why our lovely waitress was 'round in no time. After the initial mulled wine (she convinced me that I only needed two decilitres instead of three, besides, the cup can only hold so much) came a host of other treats – including food as well – all very tasty and quickly served, I must say, I couldn’t have been happier with my choice. To add to my pleasures, the music too, was just fine; not too loud and not too popular either.

Later I took a tour of the cellar. It’s great, it’s vast, it’s empty; short of guests, I guess. Shame, it would be ideal for private parties. Nonetheless, I think I’ll be back soon.

Captain Cook Pub

1065 Budapest, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 19/a.

So, here we have this Captain Cook Pub – classic in many ways. It’s been leading reckless sailors away from St Stephen’s Cathedral since 1992, out of the cold, into the cool shade of the plane-tree at the beginning of Lázár utca. The ship shaped bar provides a great background to any not-so-formal meeting, and it is from here that any thirsty guest may taste the beers of the Dutch (Heineken) and of the Australians, who kindly provided us with Foster’s from Down under. But beware, this is not nearly the beginning of the end: the namesake of dear old Capt James Cook has its own chef, who, if deemed necessary, will cook (pardon the pub pun – ah, the things I do with words!) anything between scrambled eggs and pizza, including (but not limited to) gulyás soup, spaghetti, Caesar salad and hamburger.

The interior is so fine with detail that it won’t let your eyes rest. There are so many things and stuff and bits and pieces that it’s not entirely unbelievable that they’re indeed Captain Cook’s collection of a lifetime spent trotting the globe. The panorama provided from the high-backed chairs and booths is quite awe-inspiring.

One point of disappointment was the lavatory, which simply didn’t match the rest of the pub’s great interior. Other than that, I think if it was any closer to the university (and my price range), I would stay here all day, with minor excursions and strictly for particularly exciting lectures or seminars.

Lónyai Pub

1092 Budapest, Lónyai utca 32.

We were lost. Completely lost on our way to a pub (a great place, according to a friend). But alas! a good pub is only tempting if it’s far from an even better one. In hindsight, it wasn’t such a bad choice, to abandon our original plan and visit Lónyai utca instead.

Oh, but the walls were simply horrid, I couldn't resist a comment now and again, not even dead drunk chemically inconvenienced. To leave planning to the snobbish bastards may have been a good idea at the time, but once the paintwork (probably by an undiscovered genius of a graffiti artist) was done, the dark tones were capable of tossing anyone into perfect depression even if they were having the best day of their lives - up to that point. I swear, it was the light of a single candle in the middle of our table that kept us sane (relatively).

The gist of it: keep your eyes off the wall, the rest is great.

Black Dog Pub

1111 Budapest, Lágymányosi utca 12.

Next to BME (a.k.a. Budapest University of Technology and Economics), not too far from Móricz Zsigmond körtér lie quite a few pubs, all suitable for the semi-professional barfly to spend a memorable (as in ‘you won’t remember a thing’) night. Why would you choose this particular pub? Because it works. It has its own fan page, own website and full house all night. I don’t think there’s need for more evidence here, your honour.

The Black Dog Pub is in - this is probably why they allowed themselves to close up for overhauling, because they knew they would open again to the satisfaction of their customers. Most corners are furnished with comfy chairs and sofas, with matching tables. The walls and ceiling are covered in smoke-resistant yellow wallpaper, to which the chandeliers add a misty glow. All along the walls, in their little frames hang countless photos, not even half-remembered memories from a long-gone era (was it the industrial revolution?). What’s not covered in photos, supports several shelves that play host to objects of all sorts, such as old soda-water bottles, kettles, radios, hats, a Routemaster, clocks, a model aeroplane, a globe and all the paraffin-burners anyone will ever need.

Nota bene, the barman is a nice enough chap, even when he isn’t smiling (some mix-up with the beer mugs).

The interior takes after the English Pub, the Lasko beer is nice and Slovenian, the TVs showed a Hungarian football match, the speakers roared American rock, and the Doberman on the trade-sign is itself a rather German breed. Still, in this multi-national/cultural cavalcade, we didn’t feel out of place, not for a second.

Colorado Söröző

1074 Budapest, Dohány utca 84.

I was told that when the ‘Cultural Centre’ at Almássy tér still offered concerts now and again, the Colorado was an almost compulsory stop-by. No surprise, as there are very few better ways to spend an idle afternoon then to sit around, pint in hand, and watch the passers by. Now the little brother ‘Filter Klub’ tries to fill the void left after the cultural centre was closed. The Klub isn’t as popular, not as much fun to sit around, but still preserves some of the old atmosphere.

At the Colorado, Tuborg was on tap (although the menu promised Holstein as well, but they ran out of that). The order arrived at our table accompanied by a wide smile (both rarities), and as it began to rain, we were provided a table inside – probably to keep us a little longer.

The interior is a western saloon-type of place, not so welcoming and perfectly crowded. Perhaps it’s the football match broadcast, perhaps because people who couldn’t find other shelter, came in to the pub.

The prices speak for themselves; they quite high, that is.

Finally, a positive point, as we were leaving we discovered a CCTV-protected bike-parking lot.

Hrabal Söröző

And now for something not entirely unlike the rest, a Czech pub, and a true treat for you, gentle reader: the Pub dedicated to Bohumil Hrabal, our fifth stop on the way to eternal glory.

Czech beers are always worth it. Although they may not be as well known as the Irish or the Belgians, the breweries in the Czech Republic have a tradition of almost nine hundred years, and their products even live up to the expectations of the most critical beer-tasters. Find out more about the history of Czech beer.

Now, the Hrabal Söröző is in the back of ELTE's Astoria campus, located in Puskin utca. They have a wide range of beers (draught and bottled) at prices fit for the end-of-month shortage. The pub is tiny and welcoming, with attentive staff and nice interior. This is a place for the semi-professional barfly, ideal perhaps for a quick pint between lectures; one shouldn't linger too long, so others can enjoy as well.

I must say, I can hardly find fault in this pub.

A step out of your class, have half a something, and suddenly it'll all make sense.

the 'Romkocsma'

In a break between two rounds, let me here comment on a recent phenomenon in the Budapester pub life: the 'Romkocsma' (lit. ruin-pub). This newly-found hybrid unites the disadvantages of drinking in a pub and drinking in a park - with the possible exception that one isn't taken to the Yard if caught.

Whatever you got used to and love in your local watering hole is completely missing: the sense of intimacy or privacy and cosiness is gone with the enormous crowd coming in - these places are quite fashionable; the relationship between barfly and barman/barmaid is missing for the same reason. The drinks are disproportionately expensive - without obvious reason, not counting the principle of demand and supply. It seems that there is great demand for these places, though, why this is the case is beyond me.

On a slightly different note, an observation: for some reason, in any romkocsma one happens to frequent, the people sitting around one all look the same.